Friday, August 31, 2012

Chasing Food in Graduate School

Pad Thai, recipes below
Classes have started here at Babson College and I start a post-doc year at Harvard next week. Thus it's time to run my annual back to school series in which I talk about the experience through the lens of food from all different educational levels and different decades. The Paper Chase (1973) http://www.imdb.com/video/screenplay/vi2574452505/ is a movie about the Harvard Law School experience. A movie about my graduate school experience in Maxwell School’s History Department at Syracuse University would be called The Food Chase (1992 to 1999).The History Department at Syracuse would get a hiring line authorized and form a search committee consisting of professors and a couple of graduate students. To get hired at a university a candidate has to gain the approval of the most power full lot in the department—the tenured professors. Departments may receive as many as 200 applications for one position and they are only going to invite in most cases three people to do an on campus interview. The on campus interview consist of a job talk about one’s research, meetings with administrators, meeting with undergraduate and graduate students, and often two or three meals with members of the search committee. Getting an office administrator to put you on list of people going to dinner with the candidate was fantastic because the faculty brought the candidate to an impressive restaurant off campus that most grad students could not otherwise afford. Thus dinner with a candidate promised a rare meal of fine dining including an appetizer, entree, and dessert; this was like nirvana to me as a starving graduate student! Here a entree I remember from a candidate dinner at Yellow Grass in the now gentrified section of armory square in Syracuse. 




Thursday, August 30, 2012

Stumping and Eating In Florida Part 2

Babson College Professor of History and Foodways Frederick Douglass Opie has been taking a look at the 2012 Race to the White House through the lens of food. With the Republican National Convention in Florida this week, we are talking about what retail politics are like in the swing states. Today we turn to the Cuban American vote in Florida.  

How to Make Cuban Coffee: [watch 1min 38 sec] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CQVzWfB_Ok

Comedian Ralphie Way on Cuban Coffee in South Florida: [watch 3 min 18 sec] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDcQoUHVukw

 

Coffee in the Cuban Diaspora: http://www.npr.org/2011/06/14/137152633/cuban-coffee-brand-may-pour-into-mainstream [Listen]



Series Stumping And Eating: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Electoral+Politics+and+Food


Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Monday, August 27, 2012

Stumping And Eating in New Hampshire


Rum raisin French toast, recipes below (photo from http://www.looplane.com)
During the Republican Party’s national convention in Florida this week we return to our series stumping and eating which looks at the role of food in the 2012 Race to the White House. Today let's talk about campaigning in the swing state of New Hampshire. Campaigning in the state during the summer months means attending lots of lobster bakes, clam bakes, and ice cream socials. Candidates stop for ice cream and at bakeries but most often local party activist suggest the best venues for breakfast with voters.  During the primaries I found stumping and eating breakfast events in New Hampshire at the Old Salt Restaurant in Hampton, Coach Stop Restaurant in Londonderry, The Friendly Toast and Geno’s Chowder and Sandwich Shop in Portsmouth, Joey’s in Amherst, Bonhoeffer’s Café in Nashua, the Country Cooking Circle in Epsom, Lindy’s Diner in Keene, the Village Inn in Bedford, Lena’s Lodge in Rindge, and Weeks Restaurant in downtown Dover just to name a few. Activist also held breakfast event in private homes, political clubs, and civic institutions such as Rotary and or Lions clubs. I am not sure if a Politics and Eggs Breakfast event is a distinctly New Hampshire institution, but from all accounts it’s a necessity to win the state. A typical New Hampshire breakfast might include smoked bacon, ham and salmon, farm fresh eggs, French toast, jams, breads and muffins.


Saturday, August 25, 2012

Friday, August 24, 2012

Military Camping and Food

Lemon Pound Cake, links to this and other recipes below (image from babyelandaily.com)

In today's segment of our series on camping and food we take a look at the topic through the lens of an army vet who reflects on eating Meals Ready To Eat (MREs) in the field.

Pound Cake Story with Related Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/2011/01/martin-luther-king-jr-series-part-4.html


The History Channel’s Meals Ready to Eat (MRE): [Watch 4 min 26 sec] http://www.history.com/videos/battlefield-meals-ready-to-eat#battlefield-meals-ready-to-eat


Civil War Stories with Related Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=civil+war






Thursday, August 23, 2012

Camping Food


Today we go to Lovell, Maine to take a look at Tin Foil Dinners (TFDs) as part of our ongoing series on camping and food.


Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Camp Meeting Food


Fish and grits, recipes below
As part of our ongoing series on camping and food, we turn to the antebellum South today. In the U. S. south annual revival meetings, which the Baptists called “protracted meetings” and the Methodists called “camp meetings,” became a religious tradition for church folk (and candidates running for elected office). By the mid-nineteenth century churches organized several week long revivals that were often multiethnic community-wide events in which people camped in a secluded place, worshiped, listened to sermons, and enjoyed great campfire food. Fredrika Bremer described camp food at a revival in Macon, Georgia, in 1850 which included frying ham and eggs, simmering red-eye gravy, and one would imagine freshly caught fish served with grits. “I visited several tents in the black camp and saw tables covered with all kinds of meat, puddings, and tarts; there seemed to be a regular superfluity of food and drink.” 

Fish and Grits Stories with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=grits






Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Camp Fire Bread

Above, an image of Valley Forge (courtesy of the Library of Congress). Here a delicious looking Camp Fire Bread, recipes below 
During the American Revolution in North America, the Continental Army provided rations of flour or bread, beef, vegetables, and rum to the soldiers. Soldiers also obtained food in trade with country folks and “camp traders” who followed the army. Most companies had a designated baker who collected flour and money in exchange for producing regularly allotments of soft bread and hefty profits in the process. Bread distributed as rations came most often in the form of hardtack or ship biscuits. Women along with freedmen and enslaved Africans  prepared and served food to the soldiers. Native Americans, explorers have been eating easy to make bannock and other campfire breads for centuries. 

Monday, August 20, 2012

Potatoes as Camping Food As a Long History

The word potato comes from the Quechua language used in the Inca empire   
I'm starting a new series today on camping food. A segment on the BBC Food Program on camping served as the inspiration. When I searched my records using the term camp or camping I found that I had an abundance of information and sources! I will be sharing those with you and related recipes this week. Speaking of an encounter in Pennsylvania in 1775 British Colonel James Smith writes, “Sometime in the afternoon we came to a large camp of Wyandots” who  “gave us a kind of rough brown potatoes which grew spontaneously and were called by the Caughewagas ohnenata. These potatoes, peeled and dipped in raccoon’s fat, taste nearly like our sweet potatoes.” Potatoes come South America and term potato comes from the Quechua language of the Inca for the word papa. In North America  brown potatoes grew wild served as a camp staple among members of the Iroquois nation. 

Friday, August 17, 2012

Mr. Lewis the Virginia Molasses Can Vender

Apple molasses bread, this is and other recipes below
For today's segment in our street vender series let go to place not far from the University of Virginia and Thomas Jefferson's Monticello. 90-year-old Ella “Gold” Baker's childhood memory of a molasses vender provides a good illustration of our food systems (the process by which we produce, process, exchange, and make a food available) has undergone radical changes since World War II. Born in 1915, Baker grew up in the rural farming hamlet of Cloverdale, Virginia in Fluvanna County. Every autumn, "a one-legged vender named Mr. Henry Lewis would go from house to house" with a portable sugar cane grinder and a vat pulled on a horse drawn wagon. Those who cultivated sugar cane bartered with Lewis to have him turn their small sugar cane harvest into cans of molasses. For example, Lewis would produce nine cans of molasses and receive three of them as his processing fee. 

Apple molasses bread recipe:

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Food Concessions and Church Services in Rural Georgia


1938 Hamburger concession stand. Watch the video interview with Dr. David Driskell on food venders and churches during his childhood as a preachers kids in rural Eatonton, Georgia (Photo above courtesy of the Library of Congress)

  
Street Venders Series with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Street+Venders

Interviews with Dr. David Driskell: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=David+Driskell

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Street Venders, Community, and Newcomers


Street vender of fresh sweet fruits, related links and recipes below 
As a graduate student at Syracuse University I wrote dissertation on the social history of the railroad and banana industry in Guatemala at the turn of the century. The project required several months of archival research at the national archives in Guatemala City the capital of the country. My first month in the city I rented a room in a hotel and settled into a routine of a 20 minute walk to the archive and purchasing fruit from a young female street vendor in her late teens on the way. Over time I got to know the street vendor whose name was Roxanne.  Overtime our daily interaction helped me feel apart of the community I had moved into as the newcomer from New York. She answered questions I had about the city helped get by barrings. Street venders, particularly the sincere and engaging ones who set up in the same place like Roxanne, become a part of a community. When they are gone members of the community notice and inquire about their whereabouts and well-being. I imagine the same goes for the customers that a vendor has had for a long time. Roxanne I recall sold some of the sweetest fruit I have ever had in my life!  In part I imagine it was sweet because she was a very sweet person. Many female entrepreneurs in history started off like Roxanne selling fruit, baked goods, and other food on the streets. Through producing a great tasting product, savvy marketing, hard work, great customer service, and relationships with the connected, some would expand their corner operations into restaurants, catering services, and or other food related businesses. Over the years I’ve come across many of these stories which I've documented in my books and this blog. 

Fresh Fruit Related Stories with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Fresh+Fruit

My Guatemala Stories with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Guatemala+

Street Venders Series with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Street+Venders

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Bananas and New York City Street Venders

1906 photo of a New York City street vender selling bananas (Courtesy of the National Archives II College Park, Maryland)
I've purchased bananas on the streets of New York probably hundreds of time but never gave much thought about their history or when they first became available in the Big Apple. Asian traders introduced bananas to the Island of Madagascar off the coast of Africa centuries ago and the Portuguese later introduced them to Brazil during the Atlantic slave trade. Bananas became one of the staples foods in tropical regions of the Americas during the 16 century but people in colonial New York would have had little to no access to them. Starting in the late nineteenth century the United Fruit Company’s “Great White Fleet,” a line of steamships began to import bananas to the United States through New Orleans, Mobil, and Galveston from its plantations in Central and South America. The made their way from markets in the U. S. South to northern port cities like New York over about a ten year period. Thus bananas sold on pushcart on the streets of New York in 1906 would have been an exotic street snack because it had been such a short time since they entered the U. S. market. 


Banana Stories with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Bananas

Street Venders Series with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Street+Venders

Monday, August 13, 2012

Italian Pushcart Venders Across the Americas



Watermelon push cart on the streets of New York City circa 1940s to 1950s (Courtesy of National Archives II College Park Maryland) 
Some four million Italians immigrated to the Americas between the end of the nineteenth century and the 1920s. Most settled in larger cities across the Americas such as Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo, Montevideo in South America and New York, Chicago, San Francisco, and New Orleans in North America. In most instances, they lived and worked in close proximity to each other when possible they established urban food gardens similar to what they did back home. From these gardens they grew produce that they consumed and sold on stands, at markets, and on pushcarts. For many Italian immigrants selling fruit served as their first entry into local American economies. From a profitable street cart selling fruit they expanded into larger more profitable businesses such as grocery stores and restaurants. Selling food like watermelons symbolized a chance to go into business for oneself and make the most of community taste. In short, for a gardener and the street vender of food, the watermelon and other produce raised expensively and sold at a profit could provide an avenue to increased economic opportunity.


Italian American Foodways and Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Italians

Watermelon Stories and Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=watermelon

Street Venders Series with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Street+Venders

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Stumping and Eating in Wisconsin and Olympic Food History

Babson Professor of History and Foodways Frederick Douglass Opie shares his favorite food in the news related downloads this week with a look at Wisconsin Congressman Paul Ryan's culinary roots   and the food history of the Olympics Games.


Related Stories:

Picking Your VP in Historical Prospective: http://www.npr.org/2012/08/11/158087219/running-mate-scorecard-ups-and-downs-since-1964

Series Stumping and Eating, Food & the 2012 Race to the White House: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Stumping+and+Eating+

Friday, August 10, 2012

Corn and Brazilian Street Venders


Above, double click to enlarge the photo of this image of a circa 1640 sugar plantation in Pernambuco, Brazil and enslaved African. Below have some Brazilian milho verde (green corn) from a street vender (photo of the corn courtesy of http://listof101.blogspot.com/) recipes below 
Lets continue are series on street venders today with a discussion of Brazilian foodways. Brazil is a country in which corn is pervasive throughout the cuisine and it's been that way dating back to the precolonial period, the arrival of the Portuguese, and the start of the African slave trade.  The Portuguese imported large numbers of Africans to Brazil to work principally in the sugar and mining industries but also as domestic servants.  Slaves received corn as part of their rations. When they had the time and space, enslaved Africans cultivated subsistence gardens which they ate from and used to earn capital. Like allot of other street foods sold in slave societies, African entrepreneurs in Brazil most likely started selling corn grown in their gardens and grilled to a sweet perfection on street carts they made and rigged with grills. On Sundays especially, their day off, one saw Africans street venders selling milho verde (green corn) in heavily trafficked pedestrian sectors of urban centers. The only thing green about the corn was the husk it grows in. Thus over time, what started as slave rations became a popular street snack people of all complexions enjoyed and helped entrepreneurs gain capital, improve their lives, and purchase their freedom. 



Thursday, August 9, 2012

Ralph Ellison, Street Venders, and Southern Identity


Baked and Buttered Yam, related links and recipes below 
As part of our continuing series on street food we turn to Ralph Ellison's classic 1952 novel Invisible Man which won the American book award that year. Ellison's description of a southern street vendor in 1930s Harlem is masterful for how it describes food as a regional identifier. The protagonist, a migrant from the South, spots an “old man warming his hands against the side of an odd looking wagon, from which a stove pipe reeled off a thin spiral of smoke that drifted the odor of baking yams.” The delicious odor triggers a  memory for the protagonist of a time when his southern family had the custom of baking yams in the family fire place and sending him to school with one as part of his lunch. “Got yo’ hot, baked Car’lina yam” he called ….“How much are your yams?” I said, suddenly hungry. “They ten cents and they sweet . . . real, sweet, yaller yams. How many?” “One,” I said. “if they’re that good, one should be enough.”  The street vendor then opens the door of a makeshift oven on his wagon where “yams, some bubbling with syrup, lay on a wire rack above glowing coals.” He takes one out and places it in a brown paper bag. “Go ahead and break it” says the vender, “and I'll give you some butter since you  gon’ eat it right here” The protagonist takes the hot yam out of the bag brakes it open and takes in the smell of its sugary pulp as the street vender pours a spoonful of melted butter over it. For good measure the vender retorts, if that ain’t the sweetest yam and the “best eating you had in a long tim I’ll give you your money back.” The protagonist bites into the yam and is overcome “with such a surge of homesickness” that he turns away to control his emotions. 


Yam and Sweet Potato History and Recipes: [Watch 7 min 35 sec] http://www.foodasalens.com/2012/04/genealogy-of-easter-foods-part-3.html

Jessica Harris, Ted Lee, and John T. Edge on Southern Food in New York:[Listen 55 min 6 sec] http://culture.wnyc.org/articles/talk-me/2010/apr/16/talk-me-down-home-food-north/

Street Venders Series with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Street+Venders


Wednesday, August 8, 2012

The High Tech Empanada Street Vender

EL PORTENO EMPANADAS ARGENTINAS

As part of our on going series on street venders, lets travel to the west coast today. Here's a video I shot of a fabulous empanada stand in the Ferry Market Building while attending the May 2012 Latin American Studies (LASA) Conference in downtown in San Francisco. Conferences provide great opportunities to do what I call foodways field work and exploring. This San Fran entrepreneur provides an excellent template of how to produce an excellent product and use technology and a minimum retail space in a high traffic location to move it. This man was born and raised in El Salvador in Central America but  lived in later years in South American where he learned Argentinean foodways. I must of eaten six of these awesome and flaky empanadas!  
Street Venders Series with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Street+Venders

Empanada History with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=empanada+


Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Baltimore Street Venders and Peanuts


Roasted Konstant Peanut Vender in front of the Lexington Market in Baltimore, Maryland 
I took the pictures above as part of field work I did in Baltimore in 2010. Peanuts are indigenous to Brazil. During the Atlantic slave trade the Portuguese introduced them to West and Central Africa where they used them as part of the rations they gave to enslaved Africans. Seeing an economic opportunity African farmers began planting them in their fields and selling them to those seeking food for the Atlantic slave trade. In Africa and the Americas peanuts became something of a candy that people regularly snacked on, that became the case in the south where people boiled them with salt and roasted them.  One 1904 account describes an elderly African American man in south who sold cups of roasted peanuts for five cents each out of large basket. Maya Angelou describes eating bags of peanuts her family bought from street venders in 1940s St. Louis, Missouri. They would mix them with jelly beans and thus creating “a delicious [sweet and savory] treat.” In addition to becoming a street vender’s food, peanuts became a popular snack sold in stadiums.

Street Venders Series with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Street+Venders

Peanut Stories with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=peanuts

Monday, August 6, 2012

Guadalajara Street Venders and Spicy Fava Beans

Spicy roasted fava beans with chili powder and lemon   
As part of our ongoing series on street venders lets turn to Guadalajara, Mexico where I as a graduate student went to study Spanish in order to pass a foreign language translation exam at Syracuse University in the early 1990s. I would return to live in Guadalajara for several months in the summer while in Graduate school to learn Spanish thus I became familiar with the street food scene. Street venders in Guadalajara, Mexico's second largest city, sold candies, nuts, and roasted beans smothered in salt, chili powder, and lime, as snacks. Over time I adapted to the language and the cuisine and developed a craving for hot and spicy flavors that I once could not handle. Overtime roasted spicy habas (fava/lima beans) became my favorite street food. I liken them to southern boiled peanuts or roasted chestnuts that one would buy on the streets of Charleston or  New York City. Fava beans came to the Americas from the Mediterranean during the Iberian colonial period. I bought two or three paper or plastic bags full of the crunchy and spicy hot snacks several times a week on city streets. If you have a Latin American owned bodega near you, they will most likely sell them near the bags of plantain chips. 


Street Venders Series with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Street+Venders


Friday, August 3, 2012

Street Venders in Nineteenth Century Rio, Brazil

Street vender of plantains in nineteenth century Brazil 
Coarse sea salted marinated and pan fried sardines, recipes below

We starting a new series on street venders. August is that time of the year when many folk go on vacation, travel, and eat food sold in tourist areas and food markets. The Parisian Adèle Toussaint-Samson (1826-1886) traveled to Rio, Brazil in the early 1850s where chronicled her observations about Brazilian foodways including street food. She provides a wonderful description of a fish market and female Afro-Brazilian street vender near the market selling “smoking batatas doces [sweet potato dish], fried sardines, and some angú” (manioc flour gravy) under a large linen umbrella. Here are two Brazilian sardine recipes appropriate for this nineteenth century Brazilian street vending memory.