Saturday, March 31, 2012

Easter Traditions and Food From the Antebellum South

Sweet onion cornbread muffins, recipe below  
In my research I found that in the Antebellum South, it was not uncommon for masters to give their slaves permission and support to attend organized religious meetings such as Sunday church services and revivals. Annual revival meetings, which the Baptists called “protracted meetings” and the Methodists called “camp meetings,” which were morally sanctioned religious events that provided opportunities for all southerners to socialize, gather news, worship the Lord, evangelize, and feast on food. Church picnics and all-day preaching and dinner on the grounds became a tradition basic to southern church people (and candidates running for elected office) by the mid-nineteenth century. Religious workers regularly organized several week long revivals that were often multiethnic community-wide events. Fredrika Bremer described a camp meeting revival she observed during a visit to Macon, Georgia, in May of 1850. At sunrise, Bremer woke to the delightful sound of hymns and the delicious smell of frying ham and eggs, simmering red-eye gravy, steaming rice or grits, and baking buttermilk biscuits and corn bread. 


Sweet Onion Cornbread Recipe


Ingredients
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup chopped Vidalia onions
1 cup unbleached spelt (or white) flour
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 cup low fat soy (or low-fat regular) milk
1 egg substitute or (1 egg white or a reconstituted powder egg white)


Method
Grease muffin tins (or a large cast iron skillet) with a butter substitute or use cooking spray. Sauté onions until golden brown, approximately 5 minutes. In a large bowl, add the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and pepper. In a smaller bowl, briskly mix the milk, egg white and cooked onions together. Combine the dry ingredients, mixing just until blended. Spread batter in the skillet and or pan. Bake until the cornbread's sides begin to pull away from the pan, approximately 20 minutes. Let cook and then remove from the pan, serves 6.

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Jim Crow, Eateries, and The Negro Motorist Green Book

Greyhound rest stop passengers on the way from Louisville, Kentucky to Nashville, Tennessee 1943  
Ran into Tim Zagat CEO of Zagat restaurant rating and review guide at Lexington Market in Baltimore where I was doing field work. Tim told me that Zagat was launching it’s new guide to eateries in Baltimore and he was there promoting it. There were plenty of local politicians with him taking photos in front of Faidley’s restaurant which makes a mean crab cake, probably the best I’ve ever had. Meeting Zagat reminded me of eating out for black folks before the end of Jim Crow and de-facto Jim Crow. Purchasing food at “coloured” windows of segregated restaurants could be a degrading and even dangerous experience, says Virginia native Eugene Watts; you never knew when some volatile white southerner behind the counter was going to “go off.” As a result Black folks had their own zagat rated list of restaurants called The Negro Motorist Green Book.


Jim Crow, Black Travelers, and the Green Book: http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=129885990

Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Sunday, March 25, 2012

Historical Reflections on Trayvon Martin Part 1

Restaurant Sign in Lancaster, Ohio 1936, National Archives Collection  
I am starting a news series that the slaying of Trayvon Martin, the 17 year old African American young man has inspired. At my age Martin, like fourteen year old Emmett Till, could have been my child. In a chapter in my book Hog and Hominy I used interviews to talk about the hardships black folks endured and the strategies they employed related to eating outside of their homes. Neighborhood Watch Captain George Zimmerman shot and killed Martin in February of 2012 has the tall and lanky youngster sporting a hoodie on a rainy Sunday evening returned to the gated suburban community where he was staying in Sanford, Florida after purchasing a snack at a nearby convenience store. African Americans and others have a long historical memory of similar tragedies or close calls that have happened in and around grocery stores and restaurants. For example, in Greensboro, North Carolina, Barry’s Grill was one of the most popular places in the city’s African-American community. Betty Johnson of Attalla, Alabama, briefly attended the HBCU North Carolina A&T in the 1950s. Before the 1960 student sit-in movement at the Woolworth’s and S. H. Kress store lunch counters, fear of white violence dissuaded her and her classmates at A&T, and most likely Bennett College too (another HBCU in the city), from ever trying to enter white restaurants in downtown Greensboro. Instead, they enjoyed the fried chicken and pork chops available at black-owned Barry’s Grill. Before shooting him Zimmerman told a 911 operator that Martin looked “suspicious.” In 1950 most people would have found Martin trying to order a meal in white restaurants in downtown Greensboro no matter how he dressed or his build “suspicious.”

Thursday, March 22, 2012

Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Women's History Month: The Women of Windsor, North Carolina

Meatloaf, recipes below
My Great Aunt Maggie Taylor White was born in 1903 in Windsor, North Carolina. By all accounts she was the best cook in her family (after her mother Matilda). She developed a reputation for making an abundance of great food out of scraps, handouts, leftovers, and a black cast-iron skillet. Maggie married Charlie White of Windsor. The couple had a daughter named Katie and three boys named Booker, Charlie, and Horace before they split and Charlie began another family with another woman in Windsor. Maggie, following the lead of her sisters Bertha and Luesta, migrated with her children to Ossining, New York, in Westchester County during the Depression where she worked as a cook for a wealthy white family named the Brants and rented a flat in the Italian immigrant section of the village. Katie, Maggie’s only daughter, and one of our family’s best cooks, remembered her neighbors well. “You know I learned how to cook using Italian” seasonings like sage because the neighbors “used to give us food.” Merchants “would give mama different things you know, meat leftover that they didn’t sell.” I lived with Cousin Katie while I attended grad school at Syracuse University in the 90s. Cousin Katie was a culinary genius particularly when it came to simple dishes. I count her meatloaf as one of her soulful signature dishes; I imagine her mother taught her how to make it. 


Traditional meatloaf recipe: http://simplyrecipes.com/recipes/classic_meatloaf/

Vegan meat loaf recipe:
http://vegetarian.about.com/od/maindishentreerecipes/r/vegmeatloaf.htm

Monday, March 19, 2012

Nutrition Month: Food Rebel Jack Lalanne

Jack LaLanne's Cook Book (photo from http://www.jacklalanne.com/blog/)
Jack Lalanne died last year at the age 96! Correctly most people associate Lalanne with exercise and fitness (grew up watching him do his thing in his body suit on TV in the 1970s) but he was also what I call a food rebel. Like Dr. Alvenia Fulton http://www.foodasalens.com/2011/02/black-history-month-for-foodies-series_21.html, Lalanne was one of the early pioneers in the good food movement. Born in 1914 in San Fransico, Lalanne converted to healthy eating after hearing nutrition guru. Lalanne’s conversion happened at age 15 while attending Paul C. Bragg lecturer at a women’s club that his mother attended in San Fransico. At the time Lalanne had a regular diet of junk food and he had recently dropped out of high school. Bragg inspired Lalanne to go cold turkey and beat his junk food addiction. Lalanne insisted that he made himself both start exercising and eating hard-boiled eggs, oatmeal, soy milk, and fresh fruit for breakfast and for lunch and dinner foods such as raw vegetable salads, egg whites, fish high in omega 3s like salmon and drinking a glass of red wine. Overtime he transformed his body from skinny and out of shape to a rock hard physique. In 1936 at the age of eighteen, in Oakland, California he opened a first of its kind modern gym with equipment he designed, a juice bar that sold raw fruit and vegetable juices, and nutritious baked goods that his mother made. His facility also included and a health food store. As his business grew he turned to television to market his message about the power of exercise and good food first starting on local stations in the Bay area in 1951 and then on national day time television in 1959. With his increased popularity he went on to market his own juicer and warned against the evils of sugar, tobacco, caffeine asking, “You like your dog? Would you get your dog up in the morning and give him a cup of coffee, a cigarette and a doughnut?” Another memorable Lalanne saying is Exercise is king. Nutrition is queen. Put them together, and you’ve got a kingdom.” Here are some magnificent videos including one of the old Jack Lalanne show and an interview of Lalanne and his wife when he was 92.


Sunday, March 18, 2012

Nutrition Month: A Foodie's Memoir


I've been reflecting on my days in grad school and talking about eating while poor and the debates around nutrition, food aid, and education. Similar debates about nutrition and public policy have been in the news recently. For example, celebrity Chief Jamie Oliver recently called for reforms in the LA public school district’s school lunch program and New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg has championed the reduction of statured fats and sugar in the big apple particularly targeting restaurants, public school vending machines, and school cafeteria menus. Last year Bloomberg banned the use of city distributed food stamps for the purpose of sugary drinks. Here’s my suggestion to public officials related to food stamps and nutrition: Why not link a healthy food shopper’s education course to getting on the list of food stamp recipients the same way some states require a driver’s education course before you can receive a learners permit to drive a car? There are people doing excellent work on providing fresh produce to impoverished communities. One of my heroes is Will Allen and his work at Growing Power. Check out the video and other links below.




Nutrition Month Series with Related Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=nutrition+month 

Monday, March 12, 2012

Stumping and Eating: Alabama Barbecue

White BBQ sauce on apple brined chicken, recipes below  
Voters in Alabama and Mississippi vote in the Republican presidential primary tomorrow. The candidates have been out stumping and eating across both states trying to connect with voters. Northerners Mitt Romney and Rick Santorum have their work cut out trying to gain the trust of Southern voters. I'd suggest a crash course on barbecue in both states. Two places local party activists in Alabama will bring candidates to our Big Bob's Barbecue and Dreamland Barbecue. Here is a great discussion of both sauce and barbecue I found in the Alabama State WPA Records and stories generated for the America Eats Project during the Great Depression. In Alabama no barbecue was considered done unless the meat was “saturated with blistering sauces.” Cooks repeatedly basted the barbecuing meat for hours until it was an “aromatic brown,” Good barbecue in short is meat cooked slowly and frequently basted. What is unique about Alabama is the states trade mark white mayonnaise based barbecue sauce that Big Bob Gibson created in Decatur, Alabama. The story goes that in 1925, Gibson started selling barbecue out of his backyard and the demand for his product eventually led to start of a family owned barbecue restaurant that is still open today. Attached is a link to several Alabama white barbecue sauce recipes followed by an oral history Big Bob’s barbecue on video.

Alabama barbecue sauce recipes: http://www.cdkitchen.com/recipes/cat/2015/


Video Oral history Big Bob’s Barbecue:
http://www.southernbbqtrail.com/big_bob_gibsons_slideshow/big_bob_gibson.shtml

Series Stumping And Eating And Related Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Electoral+Politics+and+Food




Sunday, March 11, 2012

Nutrition Month: Food Rebel Malcolm X

Frederick Douglass Opie, Babson College

Navy bean soup, recipes below (photo from http://belleofthekitchen.blogspot.com/)

In my book Hog and Hominy http://cup.columbia.edu/book/978-0-231-14638-8/hog-and-hominy, I have a chapter called food Rebels; Malcolm X fits that definition—one who opposed the traditional African American culinary traditions like eating lots of pork and other southern eating habits. Starting in 1954, Malcolm X and the members of Temple 7 in Harlem were the face of the Nation of Islam’s message about food in metropolitan New York. The only African Americans he knew of “who had any sense of being very disciplined nutritionally would probably be the Muslims,” says Harlem native Roy Miller. “I think that Malcolm X personified that publicly,” maintains Miller. On many occasions “he spoke very vigilantly about, ‘you don’t eat that pig,’ and all that sort of stuff.” In what he said and how he lived, Malcolm, says Miller, “made a lot of people conscious about what they were eating and being very careful about what you were eating.” Rudy Bradshaw, another Harlem native, had a brother who was very close to Malcolm. He said that if you went to a place to eat and ordered pork, “Malcolm would ridicule you in a joking way . . . he did that with [Harlem intellectuals] John Hendrik Clarke and Dr. Benyohagen [aka Dr. Ben].” He would remind them that the pig is the dirtiest animal on the farm and subsequently over time persuaded them and others to reform their eating traditions. In contrast to soul food restaurants, Black Muslim restaurants served beef and fish meals with brown rice, fresh vegetables, bean soup, and bean pies. Below are navy bean soup recipes that are most appropriate for this slice of black history.

Nation of Islam Navy bean soup recipe (recipe from http://www.seventhfam.com/scmhwc/ourfamily/vegetarian.htm)

Ingredients
1 pound of small navy beans
1 large onion
3-4 bay leaves ground parsley
ground peppers salt
(All of the above to taste)

Method
Soak beans overnight or quick soak by bringing beans to a boil for 2-3 minutes and soak for I hour. Soaking cuts cooking time by approximately 1/2 . Rinse the beans thoroughly, discarding all of the water used for soaking and clean the remnants of the water from the pot used. Replace beans in a full pot of clean, cool water and place on top of the stove at a medium to medium high setting. Dice or thinly slice the onion and the cloves. Add the whole bay leaves. Cook until beans are tender, then add spices, reduce heat and slow cook until the desired consistency of beans and bean stock is achieved.

Malcolm X Stories with Related Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=Malcolm+X

Nation of Islam Stories with Related Recipes http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=nation+of+islam

Nutrition Month Series with Related Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=nutrition+month