Here is part two of the history of July 4th food and culture that I
started yesterday. Using a wide range of sources, including oral
histories, traditional archival materials, and images I maintain that knowledge
of who cooks and serves food and what and where on eats is a good indicator of
one's social position and status. I'm a guy who loves to cook and serve food at
home and at barbecues away from home. It's always amazing to see how both men
and women respond to that aspect of my personality as strange, admirable, and
praiseworthy. My wife educated me about the reality that people take women for
granted when they perform the same task that our society as defined as a
women's responsibility. Similarly I note who the employees at restaurants,
cafeterias, or catered events are. I note their gender, ethnicity, and
indicators of their power. Often we the public treat such employees like Ralph
Ellison's character the invisible man or woman. I wondered Who
cooked and served the food at the collective July 4th barbecues that had
become a tradition in many North American rural communities after the end of
the American Revolution and English colonial status? In communities with
enslaved Africans, slaves ran the barbecue pits and served the food and drink.
In communities without slaves, free local men and women of
different ethnic origins who had developed reputations performed the
task. Traveler John James (1785 –1851) description of a 19th century July 4th
country barbecue near Louisville, Kentucky tells us, “Fifty cooks or more” with
no ethnic description provided, “moved to and fro as they plied their trade;
waiters of all qualities,” says James, perhaps an indicator of ethnic, class,
and gender equality here, “were disposing the dishes, the glasses, and the
punch-bowls, amid vat[s] filled with rich wines. . . . [T]he roasted viands
[food] perfume the air, and all appearances conspire to predict the speedy
commencement of a banquet such as may suit the vigorous appetite of American
woodsmen.” Today we North Americans tend to do our July 4th barbecuing with
family and a few invited friends from the same class and ethnic group. I argue
that diversity exist around the evening fireworks ritual of the July 4th celebration
more so than the breaking of bread and consumption of sumptuous barbecue and
side dishes.
My Barbecue Stories with Recipes: http://www.foodasalens.com/search?q=barbecue
Barbecue sauce music video—a must see! http://filmshare.info/view/812/the-bbq-song/


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