Saturday, May 29, 2010
According to Mt Vernon, New York’s Reginald T. Ward, Barbecue in Bertie, County, North Carolina means “chopped barbecue.” Ward, who I interviewed for my book Hog and Hominy: Soul Food from Africa to America http://cup.columbia.edu/book/978-0-231-14638-8/hog-and-hominy/excerpt migrated to New York from Robbinsonville in Bertie County in the 1960s. In North Carolina Ward grew up barbecuing a whole pig chopped up with different spices “like vinegar and red pepper.” The word barbecue varies from region to region even across a state. Historically the folks in Bertie County, in eastern North Carolina, used a vinegar based sauce. Here is an Eastern North Carolina barbecue sauce recipe you can try this Memorial Day weekend.
Eastern North Carolina barbecue sauce recipe: http://www.cdkitchen.com/recipes/recs/291/NorthCarolinaEasternStyleS64780.shtml
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Crawfish étouffée is another dish with lots of sauce and history. The dish shows the influence of Europeans, Native Americans, and Africans on new world cookery and it’s one of the first simple but tasty soul food dishes in Louisiana cuisine. The French settlers from Vendée, Poitou, and Brittany who eventually became known as Acadians and Cajuns brought with them the foodways of commoners in France who developed sauces intended to make simple dishes more appetizing and stretched their nutritional and filling values. In colonial Louisiana Africans shared the tradition of one-pot-meals with poor whites that lived among and around them. Africans also shared the ubiquitous habit of eating rice with most meals. Native American added the use of tomatoes in Crawfish étouffée; tomatoes are indigenous to the Americas. The word étouffée comes from the French word “to smother” and it means a luscious tomato based sauce. Here is link to wonderful crawfish étouffée like the delicious one I ate pictured above in New Orleans.
Crawfish étouffée recipe: http://www.louisianafishfry.com/recipes.php?action=submit&id=34
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Moroccan-Salmon with sweet and spicy barbecue sauce, recipe below
Many of the innovations in Atlantic foodways, particularly the introduction of exotic ingredients from the East, occurred as a result of 800 years of North African cultural imperialism in the Iberian Peninsula after they seized power in 711 A.D. In the first chapter of my book Hog and Hominy (http://cup.columbia.edu/book/978-0-231-14638-8/hog-and-hominy/webFeatures) I talk about how the Moors introduced a number of spices and herbs obtained through the Arabian spice trade into Iberian cookery and eventually to African cookery. Moorish seasoning techniques called for using sugar, spices, and herbs to enhance, not dominate the flavor of vegetables, poultry, red meat, and fish. These spices and cooking philosophies of Moorish and Iberian origins became important to African cooks. Moorish seasoning techniques directly influenced Iberian cookery from 711 to 1491 A.D. This, in turn, indirectly influenced African cookery. Here is a link to an incredible North African sweet and spicy barbecue sauce served with salmon. My wife made the recipe for me in our first year of marriage and the sensational taste of the sauce just smacked my mouth with pleasure. The recipe below also includes side dishes
Moroccan-Salmon recipe: http://www.oprah.com/food/Moroccan-Salmon-with-Cabbage-and-Couscous
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
|Tartar sauce on cornmeal fried fish, recipes below|
Tartar Sauce Recipe
1 cup mayonnaise substitute or regular mayonnaise
¼ cup of sweet pickle relish (or more depending on your preference)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
½ teaspoon dried tarragon
Salt and pepper for seasoning (optional)
Whisk all ingredients in a small bowl. Season with salt and pepper if you like and allow time to chill in the refrigerator before serving.
Monday, May 24, 2010
|Mushroom sauce over steak and potato along with some greens, mushroom gravy recipes below|
Sunday, May 23, 2010
|Mexican chocolate based mole sauce, several recipes below|
Moles recipes: http://allrecipes.com/recipes/world-cuisine/latin-america/mexico/mole-recipes/ViewAll.aspx
Vegan mole recipe: http://vegweb.com/index.php?topic=8746.0
Thursday, May 20, 2010
Ropa vieja (left) a traditional Cuban dish made with a tomato based sauce.
In the midst of a series on sauces from Africa to America; today I am talking about the sauce served with the Cuban dish ropa vieja or old clothes. This dish fits my working definition of soul food—a fabulous-tasting dish made from simple, inexpensive ingredients and Soul food is enjoyed by folk, whom it reminds of their rural and African roots and cultures, as well as adaptations to conditions of slavery and freedom in the Americas. The ropa vieja is sautéed shredded beef covered with a rich tomato based sauce seasoned with spices and vegetables such as onion, bell pepper, garlic, cumin, and cilantro. Here are two recipes for ropa vieja a traditional Cuban dish:
Traditional ropa vieja recipe: http://inatinykitchen.blogspot.com/2006/11/ropa-vieja.html
Vegan ropa vieja recipe: http://www.thedailypage.com/isthmus/article.php?article=27125
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
Acarajé is a sort of blacked-eyed-pea dumpling fried in dendê or palm oil served with a hot spicy sauce made with malagueta pepper. In doing research for my book Hog and Hominy http://cup.columbia.edu/book/978-0-231-14638-8/hog-and-hominy I learned that Black-eyed-peas, palm oil, and malagueta pepper are made from plants indigenous to Africa and which arrived in the Americas via the Colombian exchange and African slave Trade. For instance, we know that, as early as 1742, South Carolinians cultivated Ethiopian or Guinea Pepper from an African tree that planter and slave owner Eliza Lucas Pinckney claimed a “good Ingredient” in seasoning some southern delicacies. Malagueta pepper proved just as popular in colonial Brazil. Below are recipes for acarajé sauce, a mango salsa, and two recipes for acarajé, one traditional and the other vegan.
Acarajé sauce recipe
4 dry malagueta peppers
¼ cup Dried ground shrimp
1 small Chopped onion
½ teaspoon Salt
½ teaspoon Ginger
2 tablespoons Dendê oil (palm oil) or try olive oil
Pound first 5 ingredients together and mix thoroughly or put through blender. Heat in the oil for about 10 minutes serve over a great tasting acarajé.
Mango salsa recipe: http://simplyrecipes.com/recipes/mango_salsa/
Traditional acarajé recipe: http://www.whats4eats.com/appetizers/akkra-recipe
Vegan acarajé recipe: http://recipes.wikia.com/wiki/Acaraj%C3%A9
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
A Southern Barbecue, a wood engraving from a sketch by Horace Bradley, published in Harper's Weekly, July 1887. Barbecue sauce recipes below.
Before their arrival in the Americas, young women in West and Central Africa learned how to cook whatever wild game the men of their village or tribe brought home. African women cooked most meats over an open pit and ate them with a sauce similar to what we now call a barbecue sauce made from lime or lemon juice and hot peppers. The point here is that enslaved Africans came from regions where they barbecued during feast days. Thus, barbecuing was another African technique that they had to adapt to the ingredients available to them as enslaved African cooks on white-owned plantations. Today folks in the state of Florida are most associated with adding lime or lemon to their tomato based barbecue sauce and Carolina pit barbecue seems closet to what we see with West and Central African barbecue with a heavy hand on hot peppers, lemon and or lime. Below are recipes for a Carolina pit barbecue sauce with lemon and lime and an Eastern Carolina barbecue sauce with lots of hot pepper; there is also related barbecue sauce link.
Barbecue sauce music video—a must see! http://filmshare.info/view/812/the-bbq-song/
Eastern Carolina barbecue sauce: http://sagetrifle.blogspot.com/2009/11/eastern-north-carolina-barbecue-sauce.html
The Regional barbecue sauce variatons: http://www.bbq-sauces.com/